Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

What is Plumb and Level

Plumb and Level

During my years as a home builder I noticed even experienced carpenters misusing the terms plumb and level. With that being the case, it is no wonder that there is confusion among typical homeowners.

In simple terms, level means horizontal and plumb means vertical. When constructing a building, the floor should be perfectly horizontal (level) and the walls should be perfectly vertical (plumb).


Typical Level can be used to check both level and plumb.

Monday, March 25, 2013

Quick Fix for a Stripped Out Wood Screw Hole


Have you ever stripped out a hole in wood while tightening a wood screw? I have stripped out a few in my efforts at tightening screws while hanging doors or tightening screws in cabinet doors.

This is a trick I have used many times and it has always worked very well.

1.       Remove the screw

2.      Break the head (striking end) off a wood match and discard. Cover the match stick with wood glue and insert the match stick in the screw hole. A wood toothpick or several toothpicks can also be used instead of a match stick.

3.      Lightly tap the match sticks or toothpicks into the hole with a hammer .

4.      Cut the wood stick flush with the surface.

5.      Start your screw as close to the center of the hole as you can. As you tighten the screw it will push the glue covered sticks to the walls of the hole and the glue will dry and form a good tight bond.

 

Items needed for this project:

·         Wood matches or toothpicks

·         Wood glue

·         Screwdriver

·         Hammer

·         Sharp knife

 

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

How to Apply Stain Like a Pro

This is a good video from Cabot. The video demonstrates the correct way to insure your work turns out like a professional job.

Friday, November 30, 2012

Video Compilation of Household Accidents

This is a video compilation of hilarious household accidents.

Home repair and remodeling can be fun and very satisfying. Most of our projects turn out fine with no major incidents. Sometimes however it seems everything goes wrong.

I have to say the people in these videos were having a bad day. Take a look.

Monday, February 27, 2012

How to Stain Your Concrete Porch or Patio

Concrete stain is a great way to create an attractive outdoor space. This is a do-it-yourself project but caution must be used when working with muriatic acid. Time to complete should be two to four days to allowing for drying time.

Purchase a concrete stain at your local paint store, hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot. Concrete stain is usually offered in pre-mixed and custom colors. Concrete cleaners, phosphoric or muriatic acid can also be purchased at these same stores.

First clean the surface to be stained with a non-residue cleaner and a stiff-bristled brush. For stubborn oil and grease stains, a pressure washer and a degreaser may be needed.

Next soak shrubs and grass around the porch or patio with
water to create a protective barrier.
Before handling the muriatic acid, put on boots, gloves and safety goggles with a respirator. Mix one part acid into four parts water in a plastic sprinkling can if you are using muriatic acid or follow directions provided if you are using a phosphoric cleanser.

Wet the concrete surface once again and soak any surrounding grass or shrubs. Then sprinkle the acid solution onto the concrete. Allow the acid solution to sit for 30 minutes to neutralize the concrete's alkalinity. After 30 minutes, remove the acid with a broom and plenty of water.

Rinse the patio thoroughly with water and allow it to dry at least 48 hours.

Apply the concrete stain using a sprayer or roller on an extension pole. Wait 24 hours before applying a second coat, if needed.


WARNING
Muriatic acid is very dangerous. You must wear protective clothing and a respirator.


Friday, February 24, 2012

Quick Repair for Your Garden Hose

Garden hoses are a handy tool but after repeated use and especially at the change of seasons, will develop leaks. Repairing a leaky hose is a fairly easy job.

If the hose is leaking at the connectors is could be as simple as replacing the rubber washer in the female end of the hose. If the hose still leaks at the connector, try applying a little petroleum jelly to the threads of the connectors.

If the hose is leaking in the flexible part of the hose (not the connectors) the following should solve the problem.

Purchase a hose repair kit from your local hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot.

A large leak may be obvious but for a small leak, put your shut off or trigger type nozzle on the hose.

Turn the water on at the spigot and close the hose nozzle.

Now locate the leak and mark the leak with a felt marker or tape.

Cut out the bad section of the hose with a sharp knife or garden shears. Be sure to cut about an inch past both sides bad section.

Reattach the two pieces with new connectors from the repair kit. Soaking the hose ends in a little warm soapy water will allow the repair parts to slip into the hose more easily.

Now tighten the screws on the repair kit and your hose is ready for another season.

Friday, February 10, 2012

How to Patch Concrete Cracks

Cracks in your concrete garage floor, patio or driveway are a common problem. Not only are they unpleasant to look at but they are also a path for water to enter and make the problem worse.

The good news is that small concrete cracks are easy to repair. With just a few tools and an hour or two of spare time, the crack can be repaired.

Clean the area around the crack with a grease cutting cleaner to remove any oil that may be on the concrete surface.

Now use a hammer and cold chisel to break up any large pieces of concrete in the crack. As you chisel the hole, chisel at an angle to make the base of the hole slightly wider than the surface. This will help lock the patch in place.

Next take a broom or brush and vacuum to thoroughly remove any debris from the crack.


Now you are ready to patch the crack. Several types of concrete filler are available at your local hardware store, Lowes and Home Depot. Concrete filler is available in squeeze tubes and in a type that requires mixing. If you use the type that requires mixing, follow the manufacturers’ directions. If you use the squeeze tube, cut the top off and slowly fill the crack. Use a trowel or putty knife, something with a straight edge, to smooth the patch. Give the patch a few minutes to settle and add more filler if needed.


Follow the manufacturers’ direction for curing time. After the recommended curing time. Check to be sure that the crack is filled and that no more filler is needed. If more filler is needed, add and the let it cure again.


Now it is time to seal the patch with a good water based sealer. There are many sealers available but I prefer a good water based polyurethane because it dries quickly and a second coat can be added in just a few hours.

Monday, February 6, 2012

Quick Fix for a Running Toilet

Do you hear the sound of running water? Is your toilet refilling without being flushed? This will most likely indicate a leaking flapper. The flapper is the plug that falls against the hole or flush valve seat to hold water in the tank until you flush.

Both flappers and flush valve seats wear out over time. When either of these wear out, water will trickle out causing the valve to open and refill the tank. Most often the fix is simple. Remove the old flapper and take it to the hardware store and find a matching replacement. Install the new flapper and hopefully your problem will be solved.

If after replacing the flapper the toilet still runs, the flush valve seat is likely worn, rough or pitted. You can either replace the entire flush valve, which is a big job or try the following, which is an easier and quicker fix.

Go back to the hardware store and look for a flapper kit that contains a flush seat repair. There are several kits available in the $7 to $12 price range. These kits contain a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the damaged seat.

Shut of the water to the toilet by closing the valve on the water line to the toilet. Flush the toilet and hold the flapper open to allow the water to drain from the tank. Use a sponge or towel to mop out the water that remains in the tank. Simply follow the instructions included in the kit to install the new valve seat and flapper.

Turn on the water and fill the tank. After the tank is filled, go ahead and give it a test flush. Your problem should be solved.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

How to Remove a Broken Bulb from a Socket

Although I am not an electrician, I am a former home builder and home owner. I have removed many broken bulbs over the years. The following tips are the best in my experience.

·         The first and most important step is to make sure the electrical power is off at the socket.  Never attempt to remove a broken bulb with the power on. Turn off power at the breaker box. All breakers in the breaker box should be labeled. If available, a non contact voltage detector is a great way to verify the power is off at the socket.

·         Next you will want to use a tarp or some type drop cloth to protect your floor from falling pieces of glass.

·         Protect your eyes with safety glasses or goggles. Protect your hands with heavy leather gloves to prevent cuts from the broken glass.

·         Insert needle nose pliers into the socket with both hands and spread the pliers open as far as you can. Now turn the pliers counter clockwise. The metal sides of the bulb should start to loosen. Continue turning until the bulb is removed.

·         If the metal part of the bulb refuses to turn, try to grab one side of the metal part of the bulb with your needle nose pliers and turn counter clockwise. It may be necessary to use a flathead screwdriver to wedge between the socket and metal and bend thee metal slightly so you can get a grip with your pliers. Now attempt to turn the bulb again. If the bulb still refuses to turn the metal will probably start tearing. That’s okay, continue tearing the metal until it finally loosens and comes out.

·         If these attempts fail you will probably need to replace the socket. Replacing light sockets will be covered later.

Monday, January 23, 2012

How to Patch Small Nail Holes in Drywall

Patching small nail holes is a simple process. All you will need is a 2” putty knife, small touch-up brush, 220 grit sandpaper, paper towel and drywall patching compound. If the hole is a little larger or has torn or loose edges you will need a utility knife to cut away the loose paper edges.

Use the handle of your putty knife or any object with a rounded corner to press the raised drywall paper around the hole flush with the rest of the wall. It is okay to leave a small divot, but try to avoid breaking through the paper.

Use the putty knife to scoop a small amount of drywall patching compound on one corner of the putty knife and press it into the nail hole and the surrounding area. Use the blade of the putty knife to gently skim off the surplus compound.

Allow the patching compound to dry according to directions on the label. If the compound shrinks and leaves a divot, apply a second scoop of compound and allow it to dry. Gently sand the patch with 220-grit sandpaper. Try to avoid sanding through the surrounding paint. Wipe away the sanding dust with a moist paper towel. The only dried patching you should see is the small dot covering the nail hole. You can now apply paint.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Preparing the Home for an Inspection

Preparing the Home for an Inspection



As the home seller, you can help facilitate a smooth home inspection by doing the following:
  • Be prepared with any documentation or repair records for decks, additions, finished basements, and the like.
  • All exterior doors should be accessible.
  • All door locks should be operable.
  • Remove debris from gutters/downspouts and trim shrubs away from the foundation

Interior

  • All interior areas should be accessible.
  • Crawl space access should be clear.
  • Remove belongings from storage rooms.
  • Make sure the stairs to the attic can be pulled down without endangering belongings or people.
  • Attics should be empty so that the inspection includes the entire area.

Garages

  • Ensure the garage is unlocked and remove any stored items, cars, etc…
  • There needs to be at least three feet of clearance from the walls for inspection.
Electrical
  • The electrical panel needs to be accessible to the inspector. For easier access, remove anything blocking the panel.
  • Ensure the electrical panel has an inspection sticker.
  • Remove "creative wiring," such as extension cords used in attic, interior and exterior.

Plumbing

  • To prevent any water damage, fix or let the inspector know about any leaks prior to inspection.

Heating and Air Conditioning

  • Install a clean filter.
  • Consider having the unit cleaned and serviced, especially if it has been a while since the unit was last serviced.
  • Maintain all repair invoices.

Fireplace/Chimney

  • Consider having the fireplace and chimney cleaned by a chimney-sweep before the inspection, especially if it has been a while since it was last cleaned.

Pets

  • It is best that pets be removed from the premises during the inspection. Keep in mind that the inspector needs access to the entire home, so keeping the pets in the garage or the backyard is not a good idea.

Utilities

  • All utilities (electricity, gas and water) should be on and all pilot lights lit so the inspector will not need to return to finish the inspection.
  • Replace any burned-out light bulbs.

Foundation

  • Remove wood, debris or stored items away from the foundation.


Article published with permission from: U.S. Inspect

Article courtesy of U.S. Inspect.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Storage Shed Planning

Planning is the key to building your own storage shed. With the proper planning and organization anyone with a basic ability to use hand tools can be successful building their own storage shed.
The following steps will help insure a successful storage shed project:

1.      What Will Be Stored in My Storage Shed? 
Try to think of everything you plan to store in your new shed. Will the shed be used to store garden tools, lawn mower, hand tools and lawn care tools? Then think of all the other things that could end up in your shed. Bicycles, lawn furniture in the winter months, spare furnace filters and pool supplies.

There are other considerations if your shed is to be used as a workshop, studio or other reasons. Things like sheetrock, insulation, ventilation, electricity and lights. Be aware that a licensed electrician or plumber might be required if you plan to add electricity or plumbing.
2.      What Size Storage Shed Will I Need?

The most popular sizes are 8x10 and 10x12 but plan your shed based on what you plan to store in your shed.

After planning all the things you intend to store in your storage shed, be generous because even after all the planning, unexpected things will migrate to your shed. Now is the time to get the size right rather than to add on later.
3.      Where Should the Shed be Located?

Consider access to the shed and location of the door. How will you landscaping be affected? How will the shed look from the street? Is there enough slope to the location for water runoff? Will the foundation be affected by trees or tree roots? Are there underground utilities on the site?

Once you determine a location for your shed, check with your home owners association and local zoning office to obtain the necessary approval. This is a necessary step. If approval is not obtained you could be required to move the building. This will not be a problem as long as you get proper approval. A call to your home owners association and local zoning department will answer all your questions such as the need for a permit, inspection and any fees.

4.      What Will My New Storage Shed Cost?
First you will need to determine the size storage shed you will build. Next you will need to purchase plans for the shed. Make sure the plans you purchase has a materials list. You will find several locations to purchase plans by doing a Google search for storage sheds.

Once you have the plans and materials list, it is only a matter of checking with a building supply store to get the material prices. The large building supply stores such as Lowes and Home Depot have the material prices online.

·         Getting Started.
Order your material and determine how your materials will get to the job. Will the building supply store deliver (most will deliver) and where they should place them. Have the materials placed as close as possible to the shed location.

A little planning should help you have a successful storage shed project.