Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DIY. Show all posts

Monday, May 20, 2013

Household Burglary Prevention

Household Burglary Prevention

Summertime often means vacation time! But while you are away, is your house safe and secure from burglary? According to the Insurance Information Institute, there are more than 2.15 million burglaries each year, over 65 percent of which are residential break-ins, with the majority occurring in the peak vacation months of July and August.

So how can you make sure your home is protected while you are off enjoying your summertime plans? Here are a few household burglary prevention tips that can help:

  • vacation-family-carBecause social media are so widely used these days, I HAVE to mention this first! NEVER share your vacation plans online. Of course, we would never post, "Rob me please," online, but we have no problem sharing our "countdown to vacation" with everyone. You might not even realize it while you are excitedly telling people about your up-coming plans, but you are advertising to friends, friends of friends and possibly strangers that your home will be unattended. Instead, enjoy sharing all about your vacation when you get home.
  • Back in the day (before we had the ability to check messages remotely), I remember actually doing this, but don't leave vacation messages on phones or emails. Simply state that you are "away from your desk" for your work email and phone, and leave a typical away message for personal phones or emails. Don't leave messages on your door (like for a delivery person) that you are away from home either.
  • Use motion sensor lights on the exterior of your home.
  • Double check that all outside doors and windows are locked when leaving your home.
  • Keep your garage door closed and locked at all times.
  • Trim all bushes and trees around your home to prevent hiding places for intruders.
  • Install solid, sturdy doors with deadbolts on the exterior of your home, and install quality locks on windows. Thieves are not looking for a challenge. Anything that slows them down,will increase the chances of them giving up.
  • Do not keep large amounts of cash, valuables or jewelry lying around the house. Especially within view from the windows.
  • Change locks if your keys have been lost or stolen.
  • Lock garden shed doors and store lawn mowers, barbecues, bicycles, etc. out of sight.
  • Use curtains on garage door windows and basement windows.
  • Never hide keys under doormats, flower pots, etc. Burglars know where to look for hidden keys.
  • Get to know your neighbors. Watch out for suspicious people or vehicles at each others homes.
  • Engrave all valuables with your driver's license number or other personal id number.
  • Video record or photograph the contents of your home with serial and identification numbers. This also helps in the event of fire. Your insurance company may recommend you record the value, purchase date, serial number, etc. to identify property.
  • Use timers for your interior lights to come on in the evening and shut off during the day. (Simply leaving lots of lights on is not a great idea. It will definitely look strange come midnight, and wastes energy too).
  • Arrange for the Post Office to hold your mail, or for someone to pick up mail and newspapers while you are gone.
  • Have someone mow your lawn while you are away.
  • Leave a car in the driveway.
  • Make breaking into your home noisy. Consider installing an alarm system.

Article courtesy of U.S. Inspect.

Thursday, May 16, 2013

How to Determine Direction to Tighten or Loosen Screws, Nuts, and Bolts


Simply remember righty tighty, lefty loosey. When you are looking at the head of the screw, nut or bolt, turn to the right to tighten and turn to the left to loosen. Right is tight and left is loose.

 The exceptions to this rule are saw blades, and other things that spin. Screws, bolts or nuts come off spinning things in the same direction as the blade spins or the teeth point.

How to Determine if a Door is a Left Hand or Right Hand Door


A common confusing factor when installing or replacing a door is the swing of the door. When ordering the new door you will need to know if the door is a left hand or a right hand door.

Before I started my own home building business I worked with one of the best home builders in my area. I picked up many tips that helped me in my own business.

One day we were walking through a new house making a list of doors we needed to order. He was calling out the door sizes and the swing of the door, left hand or right hand. I asked him how he determined the swing. He said that he that if he reaches with his right hand to pull the door open the door is a right hand door. If he reaches with his left hand to pull the door open the door is a left hand door.

After I started ordering doors myself I discovered an easier way to determine the swing. The way I determine if the door is a left hand or right hand door: Stand in the door opening with your back to the hinge side of the door jamb. If the door will swing open to your left hand side, the door is a left hand door. If the door swings to your right hand side it is a right hand door. Very simple and easy to remember.

Monday, March 25, 2013

Quick Fix for a Stripped Out Wood Screw Hole


Have you ever stripped out a hole in wood while tightening a wood screw? I have stripped out a few in my efforts at tightening screws while hanging doors or tightening screws in cabinet doors.

This is a trick I have used many times and it has always worked very well.

1.       Remove the screw

2.      Break the head (striking end) off a wood match and discard. Cover the match stick with wood glue and insert the match stick in the screw hole. A wood toothpick or several toothpicks can also be used instead of a match stick.

3.      Lightly tap the match sticks or toothpicks into the hole with a hammer .

4.      Cut the wood stick flush with the surface.

5.      Start your screw as close to the center of the hole as you can. As you tighten the screw it will push the glue covered sticks to the walls of the hole and the glue will dry and form a good tight bond.

 

Items needed for this project:

·         Wood matches or toothpicks

·         Wood glue

·         Screwdriver

·         Hammer

·         Sharp knife

 

Friday, November 30, 2012

Video Compilation of Household Accidents

This is a video compilation of hilarious household accidents.

Home repair and remodeling can be fun and very satisfying. Most of our projects turn out fine with no major incidents. Sometimes however it seems everything goes wrong.

I have to say the people in these videos were having a bad day. Take a look.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Temporary Fix for Leaking Water Pipes

When you find a leaking copper water pipe and can’t get a plumber for a couple of days, the following is a temporary fix that will get you back in service.

The first thing you need to do is turn off the water supply to the leaking pipe. The shut off may be at the fixture. If there is no shut off valve at the fixture you may need to shut off the main water supply.

Next, determine where the pipe is leaking. If the leak is a pinhole or small split in the copper pipe itself, the following should provide a quick temporary solution and allow the fixture to be used until a permanent fix can be completed.

Take a piece of rubber from an old inner tube or anything similar and wrap it around the pipe over the hole. Now use a C clamp and two small blocks of wood to clamp the rubber wrap tightly in place over the hole.

Another option is to wrap the rubber around the pipe over the hole and clamp the rubber in place with hose clamps.

The third option is to cut a piece from an old garden hose. Cut the hose about three inches longer than the hole or split. Split the hose length wise and place it over the pipe covering the hole. Clamp in place with hose clamps.

Now you are ready to turn the water supply back on and use the fixture until a permanent fix can be made.

Monday, February 27, 2012

How to Stain Your Concrete Porch or Patio

Concrete stain is a great way to create an attractive outdoor space. This is a do-it-yourself project but caution must be used when working with muriatic acid. Time to complete should be two to four days to allowing for drying time.

Purchase a concrete stain at your local paint store, hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot. Concrete stain is usually offered in pre-mixed and custom colors. Concrete cleaners, phosphoric or muriatic acid can also be purchased at these same stores.

First clean the surface to be stained with a non-residue cleaner and a stiff-bristled brush. For stubborn oil and grease stains, a pressure washer and a degreaser may be needed.

Next soak shrubs and grass around the porch or patio with
water to create a protective barrier.
Before handling the muriatic acid, put on boots, gloves and safety goggles with a respirator. Mix one part acid into four parts water in a plastic sprinkling can if you are using muriatic acid or follow directions provided if you are using a phosphoric cleanser.

Wet the concrete surface once again and soak any surrounding grass or shrubs. Then sprinkle the acid solution onto the concrete. Allow the acid solution to sit for 30 minutes to neutralize the concrete's alkalinity. After 30 minutes, remove the acid with a broom and plenty of water.

Rinse the patio thoroughly with water and allow it to dry at least 48 hours.

Apply the concrete stain using a sprayer or roller on an extension pole. Wait 24 hours before applying a second coat, if needed.


WARNING
Muriatic acid is very dangerous. You must wear protective clothing and a respirator.


Monday, February 6, 2012

Quick Fix for a Running Toilet

Do you hear the sound of running water? Is your toilet refilling without being flushed? This will most likely indicate a leaking flapper. The flapper is the plug that falls against the hole or flush valve seat to hold water in the tank until you flush.

Both flappers and flush valve seats wear out over time. When either of these wear out, water will trickle out causing the valve to open and refill the tank. Most often the fix is simple. Remove the old flapper and take it to the hardware store and find a matching replacement. Install the new flapper and hopefully your problem will be solved.

If after replacing the flapper the toilet still runs, the flush valve seat is likely worn, rough or pitted. You can either replace the entire flush valve, which is a big job or try the following, which is an easier and quicker fix.

Go back to the hardware store and look for a flapper kit that contains a flush seat repair. There are several kits available in the $7 to $12 price range. These kits contain a flapper and matching seat that you adhere to the damaged seat.

Shut of the water to the toilet by closing the valve on the water line to the toilet. Flush the toilet and hold the flapper open to allow the water to drain from the tank. Use a sponge or towel to mop out the water that remains in the tank. Simply follow the instructions included in the kit to install the new valve seat and flapper.

Turn on the water and fill the tank. After the tank is filled, go ahead and give it a test flush. Your problem should be solved.

Monday, January 23, 2012

TED's WOODWORKING

If you want to build woodworking projects quickly & easily and get get instant access to over 16,000 woodworking plans and projects go to Ted's Woodworking.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Preparing the Home for an Inspection

Preparing the Home for an Inspection



As the home seller, you can help facilitate a smooth home inspection by doing the following:
  • Be prepared with any documentation or repair records for decks, additions, finished basements, and the like.
  • All exterior doors should be accessible.
  • All door locks should be operable.
  • Remove debris from gutters/downspouts and trim shrubs away from the foundation

Interior

  • All interior areas should be accessible.
  • Crawl space access should be clear.
  • Remove belongings from storage rooms.
  • Make sure the stairs to the attic can be pulled down without endangering belongings or people.
  • Attics should be empty so that the inspection includes the entire area.

Garages

  • Ensure the garage is unlocked and remove any stored items, cars, etc…
  • There needs to be at least three feet of clearance from the walls for inspection.
Electrical
  • The electrical panel needs to be accessible to the inspector. For easier access, remove anything blocking the panel.
  • Ensure the electrical panel has an inspection sticker.
  • Remove "creative wiring," such as extension cords used in attic, interior and exterior.

Plumbing

  • To prevent any water damage, fix or let the inspector know about any leaks prior to inspection.

Heating and Air Conditioning

  • Install a clean filter.
  • Consider having the unit cleaned and serviced, especially if it has been a while since the unit was last serviced.
  • Maintain all repair invoices.

Fireplace/Chimney

  • Consider having the fireplace and chimney cleaned by a chimney-sweep before the inspection, especially if it has been a while since it was last cleaned.

Pets

  • It is best that pets be removed from the premises during the inspection. Keep in mind that the inspector needs access to the entire home, so keeping the pets in the garage or the backyard is not a good idea.

Utilities

  • All utilities (electricity, gas and water) should be on and all pilot lights lit so the inspector will not need to return to finish the inspection.
  • Replace any burned-out light bulbs.

Foundation

  • Remove wood, debris or stored items away from the foundation.


Article published with permission from: U.S. Inspect

Article courtesy of U.S. Inspect.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

6 Tips to Save Money on Your Electric Bill

With the rising cost of electricity, small things can help you save big on your electric bill. According to recent studies, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that the average family household is spending nearly $2,000 per year in utility costs. Wasteful kitchen appliances alone can be at fault for almost half of these costs. Here are some tips to help you reduce your electric bill.

Refrigerator:
Avoid overheating by allowing a space of at least one inch between the wall and the back of the appliance. This will help allow air to circulate and control the temperature of the appliance.
Avoid placing your refrigerator by areas that produce heat. Radiators, vents, heat ducts, stoves, and even sunlight from your windows can cause the unit to use more power than needed.

Clothes Washer:

Only wash your clothes when you have large loads to do and avoid using warm/hot water unless necessary.

Dishwasher: Try to avoid washing small loads. Larger loads will use less water and electricity. Only use standard options. Pre-rinse, heat-dry and rinse-hold are simply extra features that tend to use more energy.

Air Conditioner: Make sure that any way for air to escape is closed off. This would include open windows and doors. Check for, and seal off, any large gaps in doorways and windows.

Change filter on a regular schedule. Set your timer for temperature control. Why keep the place cool while you're at work or on vacation? Your unit should be sized properly for your home.

Dehumidifier: Make sure all doors and windows are closed while the unit is running. Change your filters on a regular basis. A build up of dirt can hinder its performance causing the unit to use more energy to do its job. Keep the unit away from walls, furniture or dusty areas.

New Appliances: When you're in the market for new appliances, shop for the Energy Star label. Although appliances equipped with the Energy Star label can potentially cost up to 40% more than standard models, they can save up to half of the daily energy you use.

Energy Star Examples:

Energy Star Clothes Washer:
While using 50% less water, these washers also extract more water from your clothes in the to help reduce drying time, as well as reducing normal wear and tear. They also use up to 40% less electricity.

Energy Star Refrigerators:
The energy these refrigerators consume is at least 40% less than standard models.

Energy Star Dehumidifier:
These use approximately 20% less electricity.

Energy Star Dishwasher:
These use about half the water of regular models and reduce the energy used by over 40%.

Energy Star Air Conditioner:
Energy usage will be about 10% less energy than standard models.

Monday, January 16, 2012

How To Prevent Wood Rot

The easiest way to prevent wood rot is to keep the wood dry.  For wood to rot, all you need is wood, water and fungi spores. Fungus and fungi spores are just about everywhere. In order to prevent rot, we must find a way to prevent water from penetrating the wood.



An effective way to prevent wood rot is to create a barrier by painting the all surfaces and edges of a board with paint. Another way to create a barrier is to pre-treat the unfinished wood with a borate chemical solution available at most building supply stores.  Neither solution is considered common building practices so your home is not likely to be protected in either of these ways.



Tips to Prevent Wood Rot:



·         Keep wood painted and maintained

·         Install and or maintain gutters

·         Maintain at least 6” or more separation of wood from soil

·         Maintain at least ½” separation where wood siding meets masonry

·         Use and or maintain flashing to direct water away from wood

·         Calk joints to prevent water penetration

·         Direct water away from foundation. Should have at least 6” fall away from the house over the first 8’

How to Replace a Water Heater

1. Turn off cold-water pipe leading into the water heater.

2. Shut off the gas supply to the heater.

3. Drain water from the heater using a garden hose.

4. Use a tubing cutter to sever the cold- and hot-water pipes connected to the heater.

5. Disconnect the union that connects the gas pipe to the heater.

6. Remove old water heater.

7. Set new heater on top of blocks.

8. Attach exhaust flue to top of heater.

9. Solder new copper pipe to connect heater to cold- and hot-water pipes.

10. Reconnect gas line to heater.

11. Install vacuum valve to top of heater; wrap threads with Teflon tape, tighten with pliers.

12. Turn on cold water to fill tank.



Difficulty: Moderate to hard

Requires basic plumbing skills and the strength to wrestle out the old heater, and carry in the new water heater.



·         Time to complete: 2 to 4 hours

How to Clear a Clogged Sink Drain

This is an easy fix for minor clogs. Time to fix should be about one hour.

Steps:
1. Remove the threaded plug from the underside of the sink trap. If the trap does not have a drain plug, remove the entire trap.

2. After the plug is removed, check to see if water drains freely through the trap. If not, remove the trap and clean it out.

3. Disconnect the elbow from the garbage disposer and check for clogs.

4. Remove the vertical tailpiece that extends down from the sink drain.

5. Check for clogs in the baffled T-fitting that’s attached to the bottom end of the tailpiece.

6. Replace the old plastic baffled T-fitting with a full-sized brass T-fitting that has no baffle.

7. Tighten all the plumbing connections with pliers.

8. Replace the threaded drain plug in the bottom of the sink trap.

9. Fill the sink with water and then pull the drain.

10. Check to be sure the water drains rapidly and that none of the plumbing connections leak.

Quick Repair for a Dripping Two-Handled Stem Faucet

In most cases leaking compression faucets need new seat washers.  This is an easy repair that can be completed in about 30 minutes using a screwdriver, crescent wrench and pliers.

·         Pry off the decorative cap on the handle

·         Remove the handle screw

·         Pull off the handle

·         Use a crescent wrench to unscrew the packing nut

·         After unscrewing the stem, remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw

·         Pop the stem out of the packing nut

·         Replace the O-ring which is usually the cause of a leaky faccet

·         Reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut

If your faucet continues to leak, the seat may be pitted. Remove the stem and grind the valve seat smooth with a valve-seat dresser or replace the stem. A new stem can be purchased at most hardware or building supply stores.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Home Painting Tips

If you are planning to paint the exterior of your home, your first decision is do I hire a painter or do the job myself. More than half the cost of using a professional painter is labor so doing the job yourself can be a big savings. Painting your home is a dreaded and labor intensive job but a little preparation and hard work can produce very satisfying results.

If you decide to do the job yourself the following tips will help produce a great looking cost effective job.

Tips:

1.    Tools and Equipment

Using the proper tools will help produce a safer and higher quality job. Make sure you use the correct ladder or scalpel for the job. Follow the recommendations for ladder and scalpel safety. Most ladders have warning labels posted on the ladder.

Use a good quality paint brush and roller. Good quality tools last longer and help make the job easier. Make sure you have drop cloths readily available to cover areas that need protection such as sidewalks, driveway, porches, patios, decks and shrubbery.

2.    Surface Preparation

Surface preparation is a critical step to producing a quality, professional looking job. All damaged wood should be repaired. Use a paint scrapper, putty knife and sander to remove all flaking, peeling and blistering paint. Minor damage to wood surfaces can be repaired with a quality wood repair product from your local building supply store. I recommend using goggles, gloves and a dust mask while scrapping and sanding. This is hard, time consuming work but it will help produce an outcome that will make you proud.

3.    Choosing Paint

Choose high quality paint. Choosing a lesser quality paint may save you a few dollars now but you will pay over time. A high quality paint is easier to apply, easier to maintain and more durable than the cheaper paints.

4.    Painting the Exterior

Paint from the top down to avoid dripping paint on surfaces you have already painted. Start with the gutters, fascia and eaves and work your way down the wall surface. Using a good quality 4 or 5 inch brush will make for an easier faster job. Check for and correct drips and runs as you go along.

Painting the main walls can be painted with a brush, roller or both. If you have grooved siding, the grooves should be painted first. Paint the grooves in a 4 to 5 foot section and then roll or brush the flat surface before moving to the next 4 to 5 foot section. If you have lapped siding, paint the underside of each lap in a 4 to 5 foot section and then roll or brush the flat surface before moving to the next 4 to 5 foot section.

5.    Painting the Exterior Trim, Windows and Doors

I recommend using a 2 or 3 inch angled brush to paint trim. Paint in line with the woods grain to accomplish a smoother finish.

When you are painting windows, paint the stiles, rails, casing and then the sill. There is no need to mask the glass when painting window or door glass. Paint should lap onto the glass by about 1/16 inch. Clean up any excess paint on the glass by wrapping a cloth over the end of your putty knife while the paint is still wet. Any paint you miss can be easily cleaned up with a razor blade after the paint dries.

Painting doors is much like painting trim and windows. Paint in the direction of the wood grain if the door is made of wood. Paint the insert panels and panel moldings first making sure to get paint into the joints and creases. Now paint the rails, vertical stiles and mullion. Don’t forget to put a drop cloth under the door or better yet, take the door down and place it on a sawhorse to do your painting.

6.    Clean Up

Always clean your brushes thoroughly immediately after painting. The cleanup will be much easier and a clean brush will last much longer.

Cleanup will depend on the paint you use for the job. Latex paints are cleaned with soap and water while oil based paints are cleaned with paint thinner or any solution recommended for cleaning oil based paints. Never pour paint thinner or excess paint down the drain or onto the ground. Check with your local government for proper disposal.